Running In Buenos Aires

Casa Rosada, Plaza de Mayo

Lucky me! I am in a Qantas Business class seat flying the 12 hours from Sydney direct to Buenos Aires (BA). The Business class upgrade came as a result of an over sold flight. This is my first visit to South America and I am very excited.

My first impression of Argentina and Buenos Aires from the air was dry and brown. Like Australia, it is winter here, and colder than I am used to. It is a bit like flying into Melbourne in winter...the landscape is dry and brown.

The people here are paranoid about Swine flu, extra paper work is required as we leave the plane and people are wearing masks. Apparently many people here have died. The hotel has notices about both swine flu and safety...do not do this or that, be very careful with valuables, do not leave things in the room....

Argentina was almost on its knee’s financially in 2001, and many people lost their wealth. The city has clean streets for the most part, although it is generally dirty and broken down. Obviously no one sues for sprained ankles on footpaths, because the footpaths require vigilance to walk without falling into a hole. We might have beautiful footpaths in Australia, but the entitlement attitude is nothing to be proud of.

Walking the city streets at night feels safe enough. There are a lot of people about on a Saturday night, and many shops are open. I walk for several hours, getting the lay of the land, before finally finding a place to eat. Like Europe, the people here are night owls, dinner doesn’t happen until after 8 pm at least, and it is common for places to not be full until 10 pm.

I try my first glass of Argentine red wine and I like it. It is softer than the Australian wines, more Italian. However, given my long day, it is enough to tip me over the edge. Sleep is no longer avoidable.

My plan is at least 10 hours and 10 hours it is. I wake just before 9 am. Long hall flying across multiple time zones is the only way I can get to sleep passed 6 am, so I treasure the experience.

Time now for a run. It is a glorious sunny day. I am lucky again. The streets are pretty deserted, even though it is 9.30 am. The “Portenos” (Buenos Aires locals) have had a late night and a slow start to Sunday. I decided to run down San Martin to the square, then along Santa Fe to Av.Callao and then head into Recoleta. There is an immediate change in the quality of the streets and apartments. Cleaner, more cared for. I have found my way to the very famous Recoleta cemetery, which is open and free. I am not a big fan of hanging out in cemetery’s but this is supposed to be something special, and indeed it is. First it is very quiet. Very clean. It is like a miniature city, with narrow streets, and grey and white stone buildings. Except they are all mausoleums. You have to be someone to be buried here. Include in its tenancy is Evita, plus a bunch of Generals and Presidents. Some of the crypts have had no expense spared. Winged angel statues, marble...its quite macabrely beautiful. A cat is strolling and I say hello in English and am surprised when it meows. Meowing works for cats in any language.

I run out of the cemetery and then down the most expensive street in town, Avenue Alvear. I didn’t plan to run down this street, but I am glad I did, as there are homes and hotels and embassy’s here. On my way back I run up the extremely wide and very famous Av. de Julio, which has 16 lanes I am told. Back to the hotel just in time for a great breakfast included in the very affordable price of a great room with free wifi.

Plaza De Mayo

After lingering over breakfast, shower, emails, it is time, just before midday, to become a tourist. I head down to the Plaza de Mayo, and the cobbled streets of Defensa. Being a Sunday, it is market day, and so it is a lovely stroll down the street lined with locals selling their wares. I didn’t come to shop, so I am not very interested. The area is know as and it is packed with people. I am looking for Tango..and while I see signs of it, I do not actually see any tango till much later than I thought. After hours of walking I decide to take the bus that tours the main parts of Buenos Aires. I mostly want to get to Palmero which is past Recoleta. Since it is a beautiful sunny day I take a seat on the top open deck. 2 hours later I am shivering constantly, but for 25 peso’s (about $9 Aus) it was worth it. I finally get to see a couple dancing tango on the street in La Boca.

At Palmero I get off and go walking until I find a cafe where I stop for something to eat. I have not eaten since my late breakfast, and order a cheese and onion empanada, and a beer. I wanted to try both, and they were both good. The area of Palermo I am in is a happening place. It has a young vibe to it that speaks of prosperity, hope, joie de vivre. I also buy an icecream, Freddo, known to be famous in Buenos Aires. Ordering it is a little difficult, with no english, but we end up with chocolate with dulche leche, which is the very Argentine form of caramel and is in everything you can find...croissants, spreads for bread, drinks...in the chocolate icrecream it is very good.

I decide to walk back to the main city, which takes at least 30 minutes, but it is good. I find the wonderful El Cuartita which has been serving Pizza and empanadas since 1932. There is nothing fancy about this restaurant, but the pizza is really good...just a plain cheese, tomato pizza, thick crust...but it rivals any pizza I have eaten anywhere. Buenos Aires is known for its love of Pizza. The last port of call is the very famous Confetera Ideal, where upstairs you can join the maralengo, or take a tango class. I arrive 10 minutes before the end of the maralengo, and enjoy watching five couples dance tango in this hall that is a direct throw back to the dance halls of the 40’s. High high ceilings, marble tables and the old world smell. When I come back to Buenos Aires I will come here first up and take a class or three.

San Telmo

A few random impressions...

The men kiss each other on both cheek’s to say hello and goodbye..even if it is just for the days work. Can you imagine a tradie (a person who works a trade, like building, bricklaying, etc) turning up to work in Australia and everyone kisses each other hello, and then repeats the whole business at the end of work? Its quite remarkable to watch.

The Buenos Aires men love their women. Women are held in very high esteem generally. In the Puerto Madero area, which is the very new part of town, all the streets are names after Argentinean women.

People are really courteous and helpful. Manners count for a lot.

Tango is Buenos Aires and Buenos Aires is tango. I think the tango speaks for the relationship between men and women and for the level of respect.

13 million people live in Buenos Aires in very high density living. The history of Argentina is bloody and unsettled. Stability and prosperity for the long term has not really transpired yet. Chaos seems to be the natural state.

It is very cheap here...I withdrew $150 peso’s, which is about $64Aus and I still have $50 peso’s plus left. While I didn’t eat much, and didn’t shop, everything I did eat was cheap.

I feel unbelievably lucky at the core of my being to be born and raised in Australia. We truly have so much to be grateful for.

Now on my third day in South America I recognise that the only long conversation I have had for the last three days has been with myself. I have the smallest possible smattering of Spanish, and definitely no Portuguese. Its very interesting to be in your own conversation in a major city for several days because of lack of the local language.

Post Script

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